L'Arte Della Pasticceria which translates from Italian as The Art of Pastry is the name we decided on for our shop. The goal is to provide artisan, small batch production, authentic Italian pastries.
I grew up in New Jersey and every bakery is a so called Italian bakery.I spent a year working in Innsbruck Austria which is very close to Italy. I traveled and ate my way through the north of Italy and I lived in the Italian part of Switzerland for 2 months so I have a good idea of (northern) Italian pastries. To really get a sense of what authentic Italian pastries are my partners and I decided to take a trip to the source. First stop
Rome!
I found Rome to have a great variety of northern and southern Italian pastries Some of the ones that were rated the best I found them to have to much French influence( a lot of mousse cakes and unnecessary garnishes) Gelato seemed to be more popular in Rome than in Naples with a gelato store on almost every block .Below was our itinerary of the capital city and we did a pretty good job of hitting almost every shop
See below for our days in Rome. I have sourced these businesses from
the Internet and sources I have at home. The bulk of the below are from
Katie Parla who is a highly regarded food historian and author of the food and
travel blog
Parla Food. Bottom line
she is widely acknowledged as LA PRINCIPESSA of dining in Rome; ROME, an
academic book for the educated traveler written by Mauro, Paola, Eric and Jack
Lucentini; and my own very amateur and humble experiences/observations.
PASTRY SHOPS
Mondi
(Ponte Milvio) known for the assorted mini-shortbread crusts filled with cream
and topped with fruit. Chaotic at traditional feeding times: 0730-0900,
1400-1500, and 1800-1900 (they serve assorted savory pastries and snacks for
aperitivo)
Via Flaminia 468, +39 06 333 6466;
mondiroma.it
Said
(San
Lorenzo just off Via Tiburtina) highly regarded chocolate factory; handmade
chocolates and other confections. Well known for their
caprese (a
chocolate cake made with finely ground almonds) and torta di pere e cioccolato
(chocolate cake with pear slices). Via Tiburtina 135
said.it
Caffè Sant'Eustachio
(Pantheon) Coffee: wood-fuelled hand-calibrated coffee roaster which
dates to the 1940s. The shop was taken over by brothers Raimondo and Riccardo
Ricci in 1999. They continue the tradition of serving excellent coffee,
often from organic and fair trade growers. The pastries are also very good but
not made on site (I believe). Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82
santeustachioilcaffe.it
Cristalli di Zucchero
(Various) The "best pastry shop" in Rome, specialises in miniature
pastries and pretty cakes. This business has two locations but the original location
is in Monteverde. They are sell sandwiches to choose from and serve snacks for
the early evening aperitivo hour (1800-1900). Their second location is near the
Circus Maximus (Via di San Teodoro 88) serves similar items, but no
seating. N.B. the second location is a few doors down from Rome's largest
farmers' market (Saturdays and Sundays).
Via di Val Tellina 114, + 39 06 582 30323,
cristallidizucchero.it
Andreotti
(EUR!) A tricked out "café" which makes traditional Roman pastries
like cornetti (the local take on croissant) and maritozzi con la panna (sweet
buns filled with whipped cream), as well as an assortment of cakes and
tarts.
Via Ostiense 54b; +39 06 575 0773,
andreottiroma.com
Regoli
(Piazza Vittorio) I have been to this pastry shop. It is the
quintessential Italian/Roman pastry shop and closest to what I experienced in
Itri and Brooklyn. Regoli is strictly old school with no BS anything. It
now stands alone in central Rome. Its maritozzi (sweet buns filled with whipped
cream), bavaresi, crostate (jam tarts) and torte di fragoline (cake with
chantilly cream and wild strawberries). Beverages? Seating? Waitresses? DON'T
MAKE ME LAUGH! But they do have a website!
Via dello Statuto 60, +39 06 487 2812,
pasticceriaregoli.com
Biscottificio Innocenti
(Trastevere) A family-run shop for more than a century. Well known for their
tea cookies and cakes. During Carnivale (either in late February or early
March), step in for frappe (crispy strips of fried dough dusted with
confectioner's sugar). The days leading up to the Feast of San Giuseppe (19
March) see the sale of bigne (cream-filled choux pastry). No seating…of course.
Via della Luce 21; (no website)
GELATO
Il Gelato di Claudio Torcè
(EUR!) If there is one person responsible for the relatively recent and
exponential improvement of Rome's gelato culture, it is Claudio Torcè. He has
trained some of Rome's premier
gelatai and prides himself on producing
more than 100 all-natural gelato flavors without the slightest compromise in
quality. Options range from the traditional chocolate and strawberry (both of
which are exceptional) to unique flavors such as Sichuan pepper and black
sesame. Torcè now has seven locations throughout Rome and its suburbs. The most
central are found near the Circus Maximus on Viale Aventino 59 and near the
Ara Pacis Museum in Piazza Monte d'Oro. The original shop is at Viale
dell'Aeronautica 105 but we can easily visit Piazza Monte d’Oro, 91-92
ilgelatodiclaudiotor
V-ice
(Largo Argentina) Gelato at V-ice is made with organic milk and fine
ingredients culled from the list of Italy's
Slow Food recognized
products. Bronte pistacchios, mandarins from Ciaculli, almonds from Noto, and
Tuscan pine nuts, are just a few of the ingredients transfromed into truly
exceptional gelato. V-ice also makes its own chocolate. Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II 96
Fior di Luna
(Trastevere) This top-notch gelateria in Trastevere serves exceptional and
intense fruit flavors, many made with ingredients cultivated in Lazio. The
creamy flavors employ local organic milk and the chocolate comes from fair
trade sources. Via della Lungaretta 96
Gori
(Northern Rome) Katie Perela writing "I first read about this place last
year on
Tavole
Romane, but I didn’t visit until recently. I will never forgive myself for
waiting so long. The gelato is made in the all-natural style of
Claudio Torcè (the
Goris are part of a small but growing number of his disciples), the flavors are
clean and creative, and the service is patient and enthusiastic. Pumpkin seed
and buckwheat-myrtle gelato. Gori is in northern Rome, but is very easy to get
to from Termini on the 84 or 90 buses. Piazza Menenio Agrippa 8b/8c (Don't
worry…we are going to rent a driver).
Neve di Latte (Snow of milk)
(Northern Rome) In the short time it has been open, Neve di Latte has already
gotten tons of press from Italian food blogs (
Pasto Nudo,
Senza
Panna, and
Scatti
di Gusto, to name a few). It is the newest project of gelataio Ermanno di
Pomponio, who has been in the business for decades and closed the much-loved Il
Mio Gelato Naturale in November. The ingredients are maniacally sourced (the
milk comes from a biodynamic producer in Germany, the eggs are from
Paolo
Parisi, the chocolate is Amedei) and di Pomponio’s gelato is creamy and
intense, with a consistency verging on lightness. Chocolate and cherry swirl
gelato is highly recommended by Parla.
Via Luigi Poletti 6;
closed Tuesday.
Gelateria Fatamorgana
Creative, whimsical flavors abound at gelataia Maria Agnese Spagnuolo’s two
locations. Flavors feature surprising combos like pear and gorgonzola,
chocolate and tobacco, black rice and rose petals. The owner of this place is a
woman and she was trained by the Roman Emperor of gelato Claudio Torce. Panacea
and coconut gelato are recommended by Parla. Via di Lago Lesina 9/11 or Via
Bettolo 7;
Gelateria della Palma
(Pantheon) Very modern, very touristic but pretty/very good. Its in the middle
of everything and worth a stop. Via della Maddalena, 19/23
Giolitti
(Colonna) Rome's most famous gelaterie, extremely busy and blown out by
government office workers and of course tourists. You must experience
this place but the gelato...eh. Via degli Uffici del Vicario
Il Gelato di San Crispino
(Trevi) Given its location and how these folks describe themselves "a
laboratory" researching new flavors and textures we should certainly
visit. They are also considered by some folks as one of the best in Rome since
they only use fresh, organic ingredients in very nice packaging. I have
been to this place several times with the kids. The quality is …eh.
Via della Panetteria 42
Gelateria Ciampini
(Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29) I have been there with the kids and its in
the center of Rome. A very creamy gelato and better than eh.
GRANITA - a slushy, sugary, icey mixture
that is primarily a southern Italian phenomenon
Cremeria Monforte
(next to the Pantheon) Recommended by Parla just for the granita, via della
rotonda 22
Ciuri Ciuri
(north of Colosseo) This should be interesting. Parla recommended them
for the excellent granita but they style themselves a "pasticceria
siciliana" which might be very helpful for us. Any way the reviews are
very strong and they are worth the trip.
NAPOLI
After an eating marathon in Rome we are off to Naples a city famous for food particularly pizza, puttanesca, eggplant parmesan but more importantly pastry. There is a pastry shop on almost every block mostly with the same specialties. Sfoglietelle and rum baba being the reigning champions. Below is our itinerary from Naples
1) Attanasio - Antico Forno delle
Sfoglitelle Calde (SE- 5 blocks from the Termini Napoli and one block east of
Piazza Garabaldi)
(Vico Ferrovia, 1-2-3-4), a small bakery that serves a
heavenly sfoglia riccia hot out of the oven. Based
upon their local reviews they may be considered one of the best makers of
sfoglietelle.BY THE WAY THIS GUY HAS ON
HIS WEBSITE VIDEOS! WHICH APPEAR TO ME TO BE VERY DETAILED ON HOW TO MAKE
VARIOUS KINDS OF SFOGLITELLE BUT OBVIOUSLY NO RECEIPES. WE SHOULD ALL
TAKE A LOOK AT THEM…THERE ARE MORE THAN SEVERAL sfogliatelleattanasio.it
EXCELSIOR
PORT SAN LUCIA
BAY OF NAPOLI
CASTEL DELL'OVO
PIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITO
ROYAL PALACE OF NAPOLI (NOW BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE
VITTORIO EMMANUELE III)
BRANDI (SEE BELOW PIZZA)
2) Gran Caffe Gambrinus
(Via Chiaia, 1-2; 39-081-41-75-82; www.caffegambrinus.com),
a marbled cafe from the late 19th century that hosted the rich and famous,
including Oscar Wilde. Closed on Tuesday. I've been to this place many
times over my life time. It was my Zia Maria's favorite place in Napoli.
SANTA CATERINA A CHIAIA
3) Gran Caffe Cimmino(NE)
Via Gaetano Filangeri, 12, Per a
customer review - it’s a piece of heaven.
4) Gay Odin
(Vico Vetriera 12) La storica cioccolateria napoletana, in alcune
delle sue sedi, come quella a Via Benedetto Croce, ha anche un ricco
assortimento di gusti di gelati, tutti sulle diverse varianti del cioccolato.
Veramente un paradiso! Si passa dal loro tipico gusto al cioccolato foresta, al
brasiliano che è un eccellente mix di cacao e caffè, e ancora al cioccolato con
rum o con cannella, cioccolato bianco, extra fondente. Insomma una vera
tentazione per gli amanti del cioccolato!
WALK THROUGH SPANISH QUARTER
5) Gelateria della Scimmia
Established way back in 1934, Piazza Carità 4 (tel. +39-
081-552-0272),
TO SUBWAY-TOLEDO TO CAVOUR
6) Pasticceria Mignone (E)
(Piazza Cavour 145) recommended
by Katie Parla
7) Pasticceria Aruta Pasquale (E)
(Via Porta San Gennaro 34) recommended by Katie Parla
8) Bar Tico,
(Via del Duomo 27) We would go here for the expresso.
WALK TO DUOMO OF NAPLES
9) Pasticceria Angelo Carbone (E)
(Largo Regina Coeli 4) recommended by Katie Parla
WALK TO SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE
10) Scaturchio (SE)
(Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19) the oldest pastry shop in
Naples and some touristic sites claim to be the best…we shall see.
11) Gran Caffe Aragonese (SE)
(Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 5-8)
has cosy seats indoors and house coffee made with espresso and vanilla
ice-cream; opposite Scaturchio, www.grancaffearagonese.it
VIA SAN GREGORIO
ARMENO
EARLY
EVENING
TASSI
1) Gran Bar Riviera (N) (gelato)
(Riviera di Chiaia 183) opened in 1860 and claims to have
invented the tartufo.
2) Fantasia Gelati (gelato)
(Piazza Vanvitelli) Via Francesco 80, in
cui troverete un’infinità di gusti particolarissimi e uno più gustoso
dell’altro. Un vero rimedio per ogni tristezza, se non credete a quel che
diciamo, fateci un salto
TASSI
3) Chalet Ciro (N) (gelato)
Via Merogellina 31
SECONDARY PLACES WHICH WE CAN DECIDE UPON VISITING ONCE WE ARE DONE WITH THE
ABOVE
Bellavia, Caraturo, Moccia, Pintauro, Leopoldo , La fonte del dolce
AUTISTA- Outside of Naples
Pasquale Marigliano (pasticceria)
Via G. D'Annunzio 23, 80040 San Gennarello di Ottaviano (NA), recommended
by Scatti di Gusto and the only place in Napoli to get a
91 pasticceria.
Ranked
number 4 in all of Italia. Only one place on our list in Rome
got a 90 (Cristalli di Zucchero). Scatti di Gusto also puts out a guide
list for all of
Italy which I will try to purchase.
PASTICCERIA NAPUL'E'CENTRELLA GIUSEPPINA
(pasticceria)
Viale Dei Tigli, 4880013 CASALNUOVO DI NAPOLI
(NA)
Recommended by Scatti di Gusto which gave it an 87…in other words the second
highest rated place in Napoli. Keep in mind the highest ranked place in Rome is
an 86 and I missed it Perle. We will need to add it to the Rome list.
CREMERIA GABRIELE (Gelato)
Ai primi segnali di dipendenza dal limone igp della costiera sorrentina e dalla
ricotta al passito e fichi caramellati rallentante, consigliava un post di
Dissapore. Se questi sono i cavalli di battaglia dei fratelli Cuomo, l’altra
tentazione cui prima o poi si cede è il babà in funzione del cono o della
coppetta. Lussi che solo in un gastrocosmo a sé come Vico Equense ci si può
permettere. Ranked No. 14 in Italy and the only place in Naples to make
the list. Corso Umberto I, 8
–
Vico Equense
Otranto (Gelato)
Fresh, high-quality ingredients make for excellent gelato. The milk and other
products are natural and come from Campania. Flavors are mostly classic, but
change seasonally to mimic Neapolitan pastries, like cassata, roccocò, and
pastiera napoletana. Piazza Fanzago 118
Bilancione Gelateria
(
Via Posillipo 238) che oltre ad avere gelati veramente sublimi,
è situato in uno dei punti più suggestivi di tutta Napoli. La vista del Golfo
partenopeo, che da lì si può vedere, è da togliere il fiato.
Remy (N) (gelato)
Via F. Galiani 29
a Mergellina, che ha alle spalle un aneddoto
interessate: fu aperta da un marchigiano nel 1919, questi non aveva intenzione
di stabilirsi a Napoli, ma, arrivato qui con l’intenzione di imbarcarsi per
raggiungere gli Stati Uniti e partire come emigrante, si innamorò a tal punto
della città che abbandonò il suo precedente progetto e fondò la gelateria, che
ora è alla sua quarta generazione.
PASTICCERIA VOLPE
(Viale Colli Aminei n°225) - 80131 - Napoli (NA) for obvious reasons and
recommended in a NY Times review from several years ago. Close to Museo
Capodimonti
http://www.pasticceriavolpe.it/
