I found Rome to have a great variety of northern and southern Italian pastries Some of the ones that were rated the best I found them to have to much French influence( a lot of mousse cakes and unnecessary garnishes) Gelato seemed to be more popular in Rome than in Naples with a gelato store on almost every block .Below was our itinerary of the capital city and we did a pretty good job of hitting almost every shop
See below for our days in Rome. I have sourced these businesses from the Internet and sources I have at home. The bulk of the below are from Katie Parla who is a highly regarded food historian and author of the food and travel blog Parla Food. Bottom line she is widely acknowledged as LA PRINCIPESSA of dining in Rome; ROME, an academic book for the educated traveler written by Mauro, Paola, Eric and Jack Lucentini; and my own very amateur and humble experiences/observations.
PASTRY SHOPS
Mondi
(Ponte Milvio) known for the assorted mini-shortbread crusts filled with cream and topped with fruit. Chaotic at traditional feeding times: 0730-0900, 1400-1500, and 1800-1900 (they serve assorted savory pastries and snacks for aperitivo)
Via Flaminia 468, +39 06 333 6466; mondiroma.it
Said
(San Lorenzo just off Via Tiburtina) highly regarded chocolate factory; handmade chocolates and other confections. Well known for their caprese (a chocolate cake made with finely ground almonds) and torta di pere e cioccolato (chocolate cake with pear slices). Via Tiburtina 135 said.it
Caffè Sant'Eustachio
(Pantheon) Coffee: wood-fuelled hand-calibrated coffee roaster which dates to the 1940s. The shop was taken over by brothers Raimondo and Riccardo Ricci in 1999. They continue the tradition of serving excellent coffee, often from organic and fair trade growers. The pastries are also very good but not made on site (I believe). Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82 santeustachioilcaffe.it
Cristalli di Zucchero
(Various) The "best pastry shop" in Rome, specialises in miniature pastries and pretty cakes. This business has two locations but the original location is in Monteverde. They are sell sandwiches to choose from and serve snacks for the early evening aperitivo hour (1800-1900). Their second location is near the Circus Maximus (Via di San Teodoro 88) serves similar items, but no seating. N.B. the second location is a few doors down from Rome's largest farmers' market (Saturdays and Sundays).
Via di Val Tellina 114, + 39 06 582 30323, cristallidizucchero.it
Andreotti
(EUR!) A tricked out "café" which makes traditional Roman pastries like cornetti (the local take on croissant) and maritozzi con la panna (sweet buns filled with whipped cream), as well as an assortment of cakes and tarts.
Via Ostiense 54b; +39 06 575 0773, andreottiroma.com
Regoli
(Piazza Vittorio) I have been to this pastry shop. It is the quintessential Italian/Roman pastry shop and closest to what I experienced in Itri and Brooklyn. Regoli is strictly old school with no BS anything. It now stands alone in central Rome. Its maritozzi (sweet buns filled with whipped cream), bavaresi, crostate (jam tarts) and torte di fragoline (cake with chantilly cream and wild strawberries). Beverages? Seating? Waitresses? DON'T MAKE ME LAUGH! But they do have a website!
Via dello Statuto 60, +39 06 487 2812, pasticceriaregoli.com
Biscottificio Innocenti
(Trastevere) A family-run shop for more than a century. Well known for their tea cookies and cakes. During Carnivale (either in late February or early March), step in for frappe (crispy strips of fried dough dusted with confectioner's sugar). The days leading up to the Feast of San Giuseppe (19 March) see the sale of bigne (cream-filled choux pastry). No seating…of course.
Via della Luce 21; (no website)
GELATO
Il Gelato di Claudio Torcè
(EUR!) If there is one person responsible for the relatively recent and exponential improvement of Rome's gelato culture, it is Claudio Torcè. He has trained some of Rome's premier gelatai and prides himself on producing more than 100 all-natural gelato flavors without the slightest compromise in quality. Options range from the traditional chocolate and strawberry (both of which are exceptional) to unique flavors such as Sichuan pepper and black sesame. Torcè now has seven locations throughout Rome and its suburbs. The most central are found near the Circus Maximus on Viale Aventino 59 and near the Ara Pacis Museum in Piazza Monte d'Oro. The original shop is at Viale dell'Aeronautica 105 but we can easily visit Piazza Monte d’Oro, 91-92 ilgelatodiclaudiotor
V-ice
(Largo Argentina) Gelato at V-ice is made with organic milk and fine ingredients culled from the list of Italy's Slow Food recognized products. Bronte pistacchios, mandarins from Ciaculli, almonds from Noto, and Tuscan pine nuts, are just a few of the ingredients transfromed into truly exceptional gelato. V-ice also makes its own chocolate. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 96
Fior di Luna
(Trastevere) This top-notch gelateria in Trastevere serves exceptional and intense fruit flavors, many made with ingredients cultivated in Lazio. The creamy flavors employ local organic milk and the chocolate comes from fair trade sources. Via della Lungaretta 96
Gori
(Northern Rome) Katie Perela writing "I first read about this place last year on Tavole Romane, but I didn’t visit until recently. I will never forgive myself for waiting so long. The gelato is made in the all-natural style of Claudio Torcè (the Goris are part of a small but growing number of his disciples), the flavors are clean and creative, and the service is patient and enthusiastic. Pumpkin seed and buckwheat-myrtle gelato. Gori is in northern Rome, but is very easy to get to from Termini on the 84 or 90 buses. Piazza Menenio Agrippa 8b/8c (Don't worry…we are going to rent a driver).
Neve di Latte (Snow of milk)
(Northern Rome) In the short time it has been open, Neve di Latte has already gotten tons of press from Italian food blogs (Pasto Nudo, Senza Panna, and Scatti di Gusto, to name a few). It is the newest project of gelataio Ermanno di Pomponio, who has been in the business for decades and closed the much-loved Il Mio Gelato Naturale in November. The ingredients are maniacally sourced (the milk comes from a biodynamic producer in Germany, the eggs are from Paolo Parisi, the chocolate is Amedei) and di Pomponio’s gelato is creamy and intense, with a consistency verging on lightness. Chocolate and cherry swirl gelato is highly recommended by Parla.
Via Luigi Poletti 6; closed Tuesday.
Gelateria Fatamorgana
Creative, whimsical flavors abound at gelataia Maria Agnese Spagnuolo’s two locations. Flavors feature surprising combos like pear and gorgonzola, chocolate and tobacco, black rice and rose petals. The owner of this place is a woman and she was trained by the Roman Emperor of gelato Claudio Torce. Panacea and coconut gelato are recommended by Parla. Via di Lago Lesina 9/11 or Via Bettolo 7;
Gelateria della Palma
(Pantheon) Very modern, very touristic but pretty/very good. Its in the middle of everything and worth a stop. Via della Maddalena, 19/23
Giolitti
(Colonna) Rome's most famous gelaterie, extremely busy and blown out by government office workers and of course tourists. You must experience this place but the gelato...eh. Via degli Uffici del Vicario
Il Gelato di San Crispino
(Trevi) Given its location and how these folks describe themselves "a laboratory" researching new flavors and textures we should certainly visit. They are also considered by some folks as one of the best in Rome since they only use fresh, organic ingredients in very nice packaging. I have been to this place several times with the kids. The quality is …eh.
Via della Panetteria 42
Gelateria Ciampini
(Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29) I have been there with the kids and its in the center of Rome. A very creamy gelato and better than eh.
GRANITA - a slushy, sugary, icey mixture that is primarily a southern Italian phenomenon
Cremeria Monforte
(next to the Pantheon) Recommended by Parla just for the granita, via della rotonda 22
Ciuri Ciuri
(north of Colosseo) This should be interesting. Parla recommended them for the excellent granita but they style themselves a "pasticceria siciliana" which might be very helpful for us. Any way the reviews are very strong and they are worth the trip.
NAPOLI
After an eating marathon in Rome we are off to Naples a city famous for food particularly pizza, puttanesca, eggplant parmesan but more importantly pastry. There is a pastry shop on almost every block mostly with the same specialties. Sfoglietelle and rum baba being the reigning champions. Below is our itinerary from Naples
1) Attanasio - Antico Forno delle Sfoglitelle Calde (SE- 5 blocks from the Termini Napoli and one block east of Piazza Garabaldi)
(Vico Ferrovia, 1-2-3-4), a small bakery that serves a heavenly sfoglia riccia hot out of the oven. Based upon their local reviews they may be considered one of the best makers of sfoglietelle.BY THE WAY THIS GUY HAS ON HIS WEBSITE VIDEOS! WHICH APPEAR TO ME TO BE VERY DETAILED ON HOW TO MAKE VARIOUS KINDS OF SFOGLITELLE BUT OBVIOUSLY NO RECEIPES. WE SHOULD ALL TAKE A LOOK AT THEM…THERE ARE MORE THAN SEVERAL sfogliatelleattanasio.it
EXCELSIOR
PORT SAN LUCIA
BAY OF NAPOLI
CASTEL DELL'OVO
PIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITO
ROYAL PALACE OF NAPOLI (NOW BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE VITTORIO EMMANUELE III)
BRANDI (SEE BELOW PIZZA)
2) Gran Caffe Gambrinus
(Via Chiaia, 1-2; 39-081-41-75-82; www.caffegambrinus.com), a marbled cafe from the late 19th century that hosted the rich and famous, including Oscar Wilde. Closed on Tuesday. I've been to this place many times over my life time. It was my Zia Maria's favorite place in Napoli.
SANTA CATERINA A CHIAIA
3) Gran Caffe Cimmino(NE)
Via Gaetano Filangeri, 12, Per a customer review - it’s a piece of heaven.
4) Gay Odin
(Vico Vetriera 12) La storica cioccolateria napoletana, in alcune delle sue sedi, come quella a Via Benedetto Croce, ha anche un ricco assortimento di gusti di gelati, tutti sulle diverse varianti del cioccolato. Veramente un paradiso! Si passa dal loro tipico gusto al cioccolato foresta, al brasiliano che è un eccellente mix di cacao e caffè, e ancora al cioccolato con rum o con cannella, cioccolato bianco, extra fondente. Insomma una vera tentazione per gli amanti del cioccolato!
WALK THROUGH SPANISH QUARTER
5) Gelateria della Scimmia
Established way back in 1934, Piazza Carità 4 (tel. +39- 081-552-0272),
TO SUBWAY-TOLEDO TO CAVOUR
6) Pasticceria Mignone (E)
(Piazza Cavour 145) recommended by Katie Parla
7) Pasticceria Aruta Pasquale (E)
(Via Porta San Gennaro 34) recommended by Katie Parla
8) Bar Tico,
(Via del Duomo 27) We would go here for the expresso.
WALK TO DUOMO OF NAPLES
9) Pasticceria Angelo Carbone (E)
(Largo Regina Coeli 4) recommended by Katie Parla
WALK TO SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE
10) Scaturchio (SE)
(Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19) the oldest pastry shop in Naples and some touristic sites claim to be the best…we shall see.
11) Gran Caffe Aragonese (SE)
(Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 5-8) has cosy seats indoors and house coffee made with espresso and vanilla ice-cream; opposite Scaturchio, www.grancaffearagonese.it
VIA SAN GREGORIO ARMENO
EARLY EVENING
TASSI
1) Gran Bar Riviera (N) (gelato)
(Riviera di Chiaia 183) opened in 1860 and claims to have invented the tartufo.
2) Fantasia Gelati (gelato)
(Piazza Vanvitelli) Via Francesco 80, in cui troverete un’infinità di gusti particolarissimi e uno più gustoso dell’altro. Un vero rimedio per ogni tristezza, se non credete a quel che diciamo, fateci un salto
TASSI
3) Chalet Ciro (N) (gelato)
Via Merogellina 31
SECONDARY PLACES WHICH WE CAN DECIDE UPON VISITING ONCE WE ARE DONE WITH THE ABOVE
Bellavia, Caraturo, Moccia, Pintauro, Leopoldo , La fonte del dolce
Pasquale Marigliano (pasticceria)
Via G. D'Annunzio 23, 80040 San Gennarello di Ottaviano (NA), recommended by Scatti di Gusto and the only place in Napoli to get a 91 pasticceria. Ranked number 4 in all of Italia. Only one place on our list in Rome got a 90 (Cristalli di Zucchero). Scatti di Gusto also puts out a guide list for all of Italy which I will try to purchase.
PASTICCERIA NAPUL'E'CENTRELLA GIUSEPPINA (pasticceria)
Viale Dei Tigli, 4880013 CASALNUOVO DI NAPOLI (NA)
Recommended by Scatti di Gusto which gave it an 87…in other words the second highest rated place in Napoli. Keep in mind the highest ranked place in Rome is an 86 and I missed it Perle. We will need to add it to the Rome list.
CREMERIA GABRIELE (Gelato)
Ai primi segnali di dipendenza dal limone igp della costiera sorrentina e dalla ricotta al passito e fichi caramellati rallentante, consigliava un post di Dissapore. Se questi sono i cavalli di battaglia dei fratelli Cuomo, l’altra tentazione cui prima o poi si cede è il babà in funzione del cono o della coppetta. Lussi che solo in un gastrocosmo a sé come Vico Equense ci si può permettere. Ranked No. 14 in Italy and the only place in Naples to make the list. Corso Umberto I, 8 – Vico Equense
Otranto (Gelato)
Fresh, high-quality ingredients make for excellent gelato. The milk and other products are natural and come from Campania. Flavors are mostly classic, but change seasonally to mimic Neapolitan pastries, like cassata, roccocò, and pastiera napoletana. Piazza Fanzago 118
Bilancione Gelateria
(Via Posillipo 238) che oltre ad avere gelati veramente sublimi, è situato in uno dei punti più suggestivi di tutta Napoli. La vista del Golfo partenopeo, che da lì si può vedere, è da togliere il fiato.
Remy (N) (gelato)
Via F. Galiani 29 a Mergellina, che ha alle spalle un aneddoto interessate: fu aperta da un marchigiano nel 1919, questi non aveva intenzione di stabilirsi a Napoli, ma, arrivato qui con l’intenzione di imbarcarsi per raggiungere gli Stati Uniti e partire come emigrante, si innamorò a tal punto della città che abbandonò il suo precedente progetto e fondò la gelateria, che ora è alla sua quarta generazione.
PASTICCERIA VOLPE
(Viale Colli Aminei n°225) - 80131 - Napoli (NA) for obvious reasons and recommended in a NY Times review from several years ago. Close to Museo Capodimonti http://www.pasticceriavolpe.it/
